Dana Slatkin

Strawberry-Rhubarb Cobbler

Strawberry-Rhubarb Cobbler

Strawberry-Rhubarb Cobbler

This week, I brought home some gorgeous rhubarb stalks from the Beverly Hills Farmers Market. They must have been a foot and a half long each, crimson red with streaks of jade green. Since they won’t be on the stands much longer (here in California, rhubarb season runs from late April until the end of September), I couldn’t resist. This recipe from my book, Summertime Anytime: Recipes from Shutters On The Beach (Clarkson Potter, May 2008), came to mind immediately as a perfect dessert for a Labor Day gathering.

My ideal cobbler combines a juicy, bubbly, not-too-sweet filling with a crunchy, golden streusel. And this one hits the right notes every time. But once I had already chopped up the rhubarb, I discovered there was no all-purpose flour in the house, having cleaned out the cupboard at the beginning of summer so the ants wouldn’t come marching. So I combined some whole-wheat flour and brown rice flour and hoped for the best. The result? The topping came out even more crisp and delectible; in fact, next time I will make extra so that there is more to go around.

Chopping the rhubarb diagonally will eliminate any stringiness, and I recommend 1/2-inch pieces so that the rhubarb doesn’t turn to mush in the oven. If you prefer, red raspberries work beautifully in place of the strawberries. You can assemble this recipe the night before or in the morning, refrigerate it, and then bake it just before serving.

To all of you who labor inside, outside or far from home, Happy Labor Day!

Serves 6

Filling

1 pound rhubarb (5 to 7 stalks)

2/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups strawberries (about 12 ounces), hulled and halved

Topping

1/2 cup whole-wheat flour

1/2 cup rice flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

Pinch of kosher salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces

1/4 cup half and half, or 1/4 cup soy creamer

Crème frâiche or vanilla ice cream, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Butter an 11 x 7-inch glass or ceramic baking dish.

2. Prepare the filling: Peel the rhubarb with a vegetable peeler, removing the tough parts and strings. Slice the rhubarb on the bias into 1/2-inch pieces. Toss with the sugar and flour and place in the prepared dish. Bake 8 to 10 minutes, until the rhubarb is juicy and bubbling.

3. Meanwhile, prepare the topping: In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. With your fingers or a pastry cutter, blend in the butter until coarse crumbs are formed. Add the half and half, mixing until just combined (the batter will be sticky).

4. Remove the rhubarb from oven. Do not pour off or reduce the juices; you’ll want the topping to absorb every last drop. Distribute the strawberries over the rhubarb, then drop spoonfuls of the topping evenly over the fruit. The fruit needn’t be covered entirely; the cobbler dough will puff and spread while baking.

5. Return the cobbler to the oven and bake until the topping is golden and the filling is bubbling underneath, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm, with crème frâiche or vanilla ice cream on the side.

Too hot to cook? Try my light and refreshing Yogurt Mousse with Honey-Poached Apricots.


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