Seared Fish with Simple Sauce

Seared Fish with Simple Sauce It was grueling work for a California girl fresh out of college. My arms welted with burns and fingertips cracked, I dragged myself down the cobble-stoned street at 5 o’clock every morning to learn the ways of a French 3-star chef. Whether I was peeling grapes for hours or fending off cheeky post-pubescent boys in the kitchen, working as the only female apprentice in some of France’s grandest restaurants was the hardest year of my life.

It was also one of the most instructive and worthwhile. I learned to make this exceptional dish, for example, from Michel Guérard himself. It embodies the kind of cooking he championed way ahead of his time — cuisine minceur, or light French cooking. All the flavors of Basque cooking are concentrated into the delicious sauce: the tomatoes, capers, wine and herbs cook down to a thick compote, which gets swirled with a few cubes of butter for a silky finish. I have kept the small piece of paper on which I scrawled the recipe for over 20 years. It takes me back to my long, fertile days of apprenticeship, reminding me of lavender fields and huge copper pots and zesty living. I guess sometimes even the most gratifying recipes, like life lessons, must be hard-earned.

Serves 4

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 pounds tomatoes (about 6), peeled, seeded and finely chopped, or 24 ounces canned diced tomatoes with juice
1/4 cup capers, drained
1 cup white wine
1 cup fish stock or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 (5-6-ounce) filets mild white fish, such as orange roughy, wild sole, tilapia, halibut
2 tablespoons all-purpose or Wondra flour
2 tablespoons cold butter, cut into cubes
1/2 bunch fresh parsley or chervil, chopped finely (about 2 tablespoons)
1/2 bunch fresh basil, chopped finely (about 2 tablespoons)
1/2 bunch fresh chives, chopped finely (about 2 tablespoons)

1. In a medium saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-low heat and sauté the shallots and garlic until soft but not brown.

2. Add the tomatoes, capers, wine and stock. Simmer on low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until some of liquid has evaporated and the tomatoes are softened. Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside until just before serving.

3. Season the fish with salt and pepper to taste. Dust both sides lightly in flour.

4. Heat the remaining olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Sear the fish on both sides until lightly browned. Transfer to serving plates.

5. To finish the sauce, reheat over low heat, swirling in the butter, cube by cube, until melted. Stir in the herbs. Top the fish with the sauce and serve.

For an elegant and healthful dinner that will have your guests raving, serve this lovely fish dish along with Mushroom Quinoa Risotto and Brussel Sprout Chips.

Photo credit: The New York Times