
Among chefs, restaurateurs, and food retailers trying to entice fickle foodies in this shaky economy, the latest buzzword is pop-up. There are moveable feasts turning up everywhere, resurrecting shuttered restaurants, re-purposing basements, and invigorating department stores. For the hungry and adventurous, it is the equivalent of speed dating, a noncommittal way to form a flavorful yet fleeting connection.
So I got to thinking about what I would prepare if I were the pop-up chef. And for some reason, this crowd-pleasing fish ’n chips came to mind. Quick to prepare and primally satisfying, it is what I make when company pops over unexpectedly. The quality of the fish and the hint of smoky Spanish paprika take this comfort staple from diner to deluxe…without the investment.
With a stash of homemade bread crumbs in the freezer, you’ll just need a quick drive-by to your best fish supplier to find the freshest fish available (for tips on selecting and storing fish, click here. I dry the fish immediately and cut it into the same cottage shape as the fries (long and thick). Rub the fish with a quick, semi-homemade aioli, the perfect garlicky glue for the breading. Then shallow-fry them and serve them piping hot, stacked up on a platter like Lincoln Logs, with the oven fries in the middle.
This versatile dish can go global in an instant, paired with the Indian Tomato Chutney I posted last week, or a Middle Eastern creamy Yogurt Sauce, a sweet and spicy Thai cucumber salad, a dash of malt vinegar, or simple lemon wedges. Master it and you’ll always be ready for whatever company — or craving — pops up.
Quick Aioli
1/4 cup olive oil (or canola) mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon smoked mild (dulce) paprika
1 large clove garlic, minced
Chips
3 large russet potatoes (about 2 pounds), scrubbed
3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fish
1 cup homemade (or best-quality) breadcrumbs
16 ounces firm white-flesh fish, such as halibut, sea bass, true cod, Dover sole
1/4 cup Quick Aioli
Grapeseed oil, for shallow-frying
Kosher or sea salt
1. Preheat the oven to 425° F.
2. Make the Quick Aioli: In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, smoked paprika, and garlic. Set aside.
3. Make the Chips: Cut the potatoes lengthwise in halves and then into wedges. In a large bowl, toss with the olive oil. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper and toss again to season evenly. Spread out in one layer on a parchment-lined or Silpat-covered baking sheet. Bake 20 minutes, turn the fries over, and bake another 15-20 minutes, or until nicely browned. Turn off the heat but keep the potatoes warm in the oven.
4. About 10 minutes before the potatoes have finished cooking, begin heating about 1/2 inch of grapeseed oil over medium heat (I use a cast-iron pot or heavy pan with straight sides).
5. While the oil is heating, make the Fish: Place the breadcrumbs in a shallow dish. Dry the fish well with paper towels and cut width-wise into thick strips. Rub the mayonnaise into each piece of fish and then roll in breadcrumbs to coat completely.
6. To test the temperature of the oil, drop a few breadcrumbs in — they should sizzle quickly. Drop the fish gently into the oil and fry until golden on both sides. Remove the fish to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle lightly with salt.
7. Serve immediately with the potato wedges and desired garnish (see suggestions below).
Here are a few accompaniments you’ll love with my Smoky Fish and Chips: Spicy Tomato Chutney, Tomato Cheddar Salad with Creamy Yogurt Dressing, and Lemon Caper Dipping Sauce.
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Photo credit: tastespotting.com


































Try these handy charts we found on the CUESA (Center for Urban Education and Sustainable Agriculture) 









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